SUKHOTHAI, Thailand's first capital

Tuesday 4 December 1990

WE STAYED AT TRADITIONAL HOUSES TOO

Bus to Tak where we lunched on roast chicken wing and a further bus to Sukhothai, perhaps the whole journey costing 70B for two. Having found the excellent No 4 GH through a bicycle rickshaw driver we opted to laze the day away found the market and the recommended Chinese restaurant which closed at 6pm, too early for dinner and opted to eat at the night market spending 'a fortune' 125B on four dishes. We ate at he night market the next night too, evidence of us adapting to the Thai way of life.

5 December visit Si Satchanalia
It being the King's Birthday the museum at Sukhothai was closed so we took the local bus to Si Satchanalia the site of an even older city.

SI SATCHANALAI

The bus stopped for 90 minutes at Sawankhalok whilst the driver had lunch so we sampled various foodies, rice and coconut milk desert on a banana leaf plate, an interesting snack was a sort of flat biscuit with peanuts - we were prepared to eat anything now as we see the standards of hygiene are excellent, and street trading is the way most Thais seem to eat - we wondered if any of them actually cook. No doubt this is driven by the low price and excellent quality of food. I again the opportunity to photograph whatever and whoever I pleased and thinking of missed shots wished I had earlier been much braver.

The old city ruins themselves were on the other side of the river,  1.5km from the bus stop. It was an idyllic setting, the first port of call being a modern restaurant in a beautiful traditional style Thai building in the grounds was a most magnificent large garden full of flowers but also featured old cats and cartwheels. Also I guessed high quality shops beneath he restaurant.

On to the wide open parkland with extensive ruins but few visitors. Without a doubt this place made a far greater impact on us than tomorrow's well visited Sukhothai sites, impressive as they were they could not match its natural grandeur. We also bought a china teapot from the back of a lorry with so much choice we all but dithered too long almost to his point of departure. It is still a proud memory on the shelves of our lounge. 

SI SATCHANALAI

Before leaving we walked to the ruins of Chaliang which were far less extensive though much better preserved. finally a 30 minute wait for the return bus taking 90 minutes - without stopping for a driver's meal break! 

Then night market for an excellent spicy mixed sea food soup and then to the Dream Cafe for a real coffee, expensive at 15B a cup but the real stuff.

6 December
Packing at 10am ready for the night VIP bus to Bangkok 190B, alternative services from 140B. Then spent the day looking around Sukhothai ruins on hired cycles. the outer reaches were not at all well signposted, nor were they very impressive. The entry charge was 20B for each of the five areas plus another 10B for the museum - a rip off by Thai standards! The museum and the main park were the best bits, but mostly disappointing after yesterdays wonderful day at Satchanalia.

SUKHOTHAI

I had a super shampoo and haircut for 60B, my first in Asia, ready for my homecoming from a delightful small Thai girl, clearly unused to travellers, who found me far too tall so I had to slump in my chair to make cutting possible.  A quick meal on the night market followed by return to the GH where we were invited to rest in our rooms ready for the night bus. At 22:45 we found the bus waiting and it left early. The VIP bus was excellent , lots of room, good suspension and not to cold as they reduced the air conditioning flow during the night, though we had been for warned by travellers to use our sleeping bags. I slept well as usual on transport but Joan not quite as well though we agreed the journey was painless.